A top class meal. Poach or bake in foil then, at the table, flick off the skin and lift the sides off the bone. We can't resist this quote from Jane Grigson's Fish Cookery (a very fine book): "In restaurants, at weddings and parties, I have often eaten the middle cut with pleasure, but when I have to put my own money down on the fishmonger's counter, it's the moister and better flavoured tailpiece that I buy."
