Cod milt

• "Roe" of male cod
• Rich taste with soft and melting texture
• Included in the Sheekey cookbook.

Cod milts or melts - also known as chitterlings - are the the sperm, yes the sperm, of cod. Herring melts have a huge fanbase but cod melts are pretty obscure outside Norway and Iceland. Nevertheless they are found in some exalted places. For instance J Sheekey - probably the most illustrious fish restaurant in London - offers Fried Cod Chitterlings with Ravigote Sauce on page 86 of its cookbook. You might catch chitterlings at Sheekey in the season (February) but if you missed them try ours. That sauce is surprisingly easy to make. Its key ingredients: tarragon vinegar, olive oil, Dijon mustard, sugar, parsley, chives, shallots, capers and, in the Sheekey version, hard boiled eggs.